English wine makers must 'keep calm and carry on'

News that Nyetimber, one of England’s leading producers of sparkling wine, has decided not to go ahead and harvest and produce any wine this year has certainly ruffled a few feathers in wine circles in the UK.

This is the first time they have made such a decision since Nyetimber in West Sussex was founded in1988. Their decision is based on the fact that in their view the quality of this year’s crop is such that it is not sufficiently good enough for Nyetimber’s high standards.

Anyone deciding to reject an entire vintage is brave. It also sends a message, which perhaps is trying to assert that they wish to hold the high ground as far as quality is concerned.

Press releases from English Wine Producers and other individual English wine producers have been quick to assert that although the quantity of fruit is reduced this year, the quality is good, but patience and extra care in harvesting the best grapes is required. Stephen Skelton MW and consultant to many vineyards declared that it is not all ‘doom and gloom’, and that in protected sites there is good fruit, but the harvest is very late and in some instances some grapes may not be picked until November. Of course this highlights the importance of place – or terroir – and how people manage the conditions that the annual weather conditions throw at them.

Indeed it is a view that in ‘difficult’ vintages, which 2012 certainly has been across many vineyard regions in Europe, that you discover the best winegrowers and producers. Difficult years sort out the men from the boys.

England is a marginal area for grape growing how ever much the effects of climate change is helping us to ripen grapes more consistently than in the past. But bad vintages are a fact of life in England, and for winemakers it is all part of the learning process, and for those carrying on with this year’s vintage will learn things about making good wines in disappointing years and in doing so will undoubtedly become better winemakers for the future.

This year has been a terrific year in raising the profile of English Wines with events such as the Jubilee and the Olympics providing the perfect platform to promote our own home-grown wines. Success of enterprises beyond the English vineyards such as Decanter’s award for Specialist wine market to ‘The Wine Pantry’ in Borough market, www.winepantry.co.uk  has been fantastic and exciting for the English wine industy

So Nyetimber’s news is disappointing, but should not cloud what other producers such as Camel, Ridgeview, Hush Heath and many others are trying to achieve in what has been a challenging year. In the most English of statements I believe that this year’s difficult summer is merely a temporary glitch and it’s a question that we ‘Keep Calm & Carry On’. Next year, with out so many big events to help promote English wines, and as the recession continues to bite, it is important that we remain upbeat about the future of the English Wine Industry and keep positive. It is still a young industry but the future is encouraging.

Having tasted this week Ridgeview’s Marksman Blanc de Blancs 2009 at Marks and Spencer’s press tasting I can fully understand why it achieved a Gold Medal at this year’s International Wine Challenge. At £22.00 it has had a real breadth of flavour and balance. Creamy, gently toasted with candied fruits, intense and long, truly wonderful. I know what I will be buying for my Christmas drinking.

Sainsbury's Spanish Wines

Yesterday was Sainsbury’s Press tasting. There were few surprises here, with seven New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs on show, it indicates where they think the market lies currently in consumer preference.  Overall there were few new exciting finds, indeed the selection looked as though the current buying strategy was to play it safe.

With one exception, Spain. Here there was imagination with a selection of wines from less well known varieties such as Bobal, Mencia and Graciano.

What’s more all below £9.00 – giving people an opportunity to ‘experiment’.

Good also to see Sainsbury’s sourcing wines from first rate winemakers. The best example for me was LLebre Tinto 2009 from the excellent Catalan producer Tomas Cusine. A cracking blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Carinena and Syrah. Don’t be put of by the label with its eye catching Hare on it, and which no doubt is a direct acknowledgement to the Catalan name for Tempranillo which is Ull de Llebre – eye of the hare.

This is a delicious wine full of Spanish warm, ripe and spicy berry fruit, combined with just a little oak, full of character and interest – a steal at £7.99.

Graciano for me is a fabulous grape, It produces wines with a real freshness, perfume and deep colour. The best Rioja Gran Reservas always have a small percentage in their blends. Few make varietal examples, although its popularity appears to be on the increase as winegrowers are overcoming its difficulties in cultivating it. Mas de Victor Graciano 2011 is a young example and really shows off the character of this lovely grape (£8.99).

Bobal is not the most fashionable of Spanish varieties, neither is the DO Utiel Requena – near to Valencia  -  so to list a wine that embraces both of them is brave these days. The Seleccion de Otono Bobal 2011 is from vines from between 60 and 80 years of age. The wine has intense fruit and is quite meaty but has brilliant vibrant acidity that lifts the tannins. For me it’s a wine full of character and promise. £8.99.

Trying this out

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